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Jackson Lake, with Teton Range in the background. The land in the foreground is Dot Island. The ^]> 
trees in the distance are on Elk Island. The lake is five miles wide at this point. W 



B. D. SHEFFIELD 

Camping and Hunting Outfitter 
LIVINGSTON, MONTANA 



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Hunting and Camping "Parties: _furni>shed kktith 1*acK. OutJ-its, Coof^ ^ 

and Competent Guides ijSi 




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Book 



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CAMPING AND BIG GAME HUNTING 
IN THE NORTH-WEST 



Copyright, 1903, by B. D. Sheffield 



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CAMPING IN THE NORTH-WEST. 



My object in publishing this booklet is to furnish information in regard 
to the Jackson Lake country, in Wyoming, which I consider the greatest spot 
on earth for a camping trip, and certainly the best big game country in the 
great Northwest. ^ 

I have endeavored to write the story in plain words — just as I would 
tell it to you were we to sit down for an evening's chat. I have tried also to 
cover every point which I think will be of interest to parties contemplating a 
camping trip, or a big game hunt. 

I meet my parties at Livingston, Mont., at which point you leave the 
main line of the Northern Pacific Railroad and take the Park Branch line for 
Gardiner. Gardiner is located on the northern boundary of the Yellowstone 
National Park, and is the gateway to this natural Wonderland, the largestgame 
preserve in the world. 

The roads from Gardiner to Jackson Lake are made and kept up by the 
Government, and are the best it is possible to make in the mountains. In 1902, 
over $160,000 was spent making new roads, lowering grades and in repairing. 

CAMPING THROUGH THE YELLOWSTONE PARK. 

It is needless for me to go into details regarding the sights of our 
National Park, as most of our people are familiar with its history. Those 
contemplating a camping or hunting trip, however, should send six cents to 
Charles S. Fee, General Passenger Agent of the Northern Pacific R. R., 
St. Paul, Minn., for a copy of the latest edition of Wonderland. This book is 
a large and handsome volume, and gives detailed information in regard to 
every wonder, curiosity and piece of scenery in the Park. It is worth many 
times its cost, especially as it describes the scenes and wonders which lie along 
our route to Jackson Lake. 

THE CONTINENTAL DIVIDE, 

The Yellowstone National Park and the Jackson Lake country, which 
lies only a few miles south of the Park, are right on the very top of the 
Rocky Mountains. In fact, the Continental Divide runs through the Park, 
and we cross it three times in going to Jackson Lake. The altitude, on an 
average, is 8,000 feet. 




A Camping Party on Jackson Lake. The Three Grand Tetons are shown in the distance. 

the opposite shore, at the middle peak, it is about 12 miles. 



From the camera to 




Sunset Camp, on the Continental Divide, in the Yellowstone National Park. This illustrates how thoroughly 
I pitch a camp, even when en route. Baggage wagons on the left and passenger wagons on the right. 



The Northern Pacific train arrives at Gardiner at 11:30 a. m,, and the 
first meal is had at the hotel. After dinner we take the wagons, or saddle 
horses, as you prefer, and, leaving the railroad, enter the Park. We arrive at 
the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel about 2:00 p.m. There are several points 
of interest here, and after the party has seen the formations, hot springs, etc., 
we travel south, passing Silver Gate and Golden Gate. The first camp is 
made about three miles south of Golden Gate, where you will find some very 
good fishing. There are no restrictions as to fishing in the Park. 

AMONG THE GEYSERS. 

The following day we lunch at Norris Geyser Basin, where you will see 
a great many geysers. In the afternoon we have a very interesting ride, 
following down the Gibbon Canyon for eight or nine miles, and see the Gibbon 
Falls. The Gibbon River is the head water of the Missouri. We cross a low 
divide to the Firehole Basin, and follow up the Firehole River the rest of the 
afternoon. We make camp that night on the Firehole River about two miles 
from Excelsior Geyser, the largest geyser in the world. The region about 
Old Excelsior is known as Hell's Half Acre. 

PHOTOGRAPHING BEARS. 

If a camping party, we remain in this camp two nights. The first and 
second evenings are spent watching the bears at the Fountain Hotel, which is 
near by. About 500 yards back of the hotel, on the edge of some timber, is a 
garbage dump, where all the refuse from the hotel table is taken. The bears 
come to this spot about twilight, and, notwithstanding they are wild, they do 
not seem to mind if several hundred people watch them partake of their 
evening meal. Indeed, many approach within 20 feet of them and take 
snapshots. 

UPPER AND LOWER GEYSER BASINS. 

During the day of our stay at this camp we take the horses and wagons 
and visit all the geysers in the Lower and Upper Geyser Basins. The next 
morning we break camp and go on with our outfit, and take lunch at Old 
Faithful Geyser, which has an eruption regularly every hour. In the afternoon 
we push on, crossing the Great Continental Divide, from which the waters flow 
in two directions, some going east to the Atlantic and some flowing west to 
the Pacific. That night we camp about six miles from the Thumb of Yellow- 
stone Lake, where we will get the purest water that comes from the earth. 




Home Bay, Jackson Lake, showing Mount Moran. of the Teton Range, in the distance. 

shown on the right. Width of lake at this point is 6 miles. 



My Naphtha launch is 




Camp near the Upper Falls of the Yellowstone, with the Yellowstone River in the background. The above party 
remained three days in this camp, viewing the Upper and Lower Falls and the Grand Canyon. 



LEWIS LAKE. 

The next forenoon we arrive at Yellowstone Lake. Leaving the Yellow- 
stone Lake, we take a southerly direction for Jackson Lake. The scenery is 
beautiful and varying, Lewis Lake being about lo miles south of Yellowstone 
Lake. The first impression you will have as you approach Lewis Lake is 
that it is as round as a dollar, but after you have followed its shore for four or 
fi\e miles, you find it is oblong. The finest kind of fishing may be had in 
Lewis Lake, speckled lake trout weighing as high as 25 pounds having been 
caught there. 

From Lewis Lake to Jackson Lake we cross several streams which 
abound with brook trout, averaging from ^ of a pound to 2 pounds in weight. 
These streams are fished comparatively little and casting for the speckled 
beauties is the acme of delight for those who enjoy such sport. 

Coming upon the Snake River, we bid adieu for the time being to the 
National Park. We pass the last of the Soldiers' Stations, and that night camp 
three miles south of the Park line, on Snake River. 

JACKSON LAKE. 

, The following day we arrive at Jackson Lake — the grandest and most 
picturesque spot in the world for a camping party. The lake is 16 miles long, 
averages 3 to 5 miles in width, and is dotted with large and small islands. On 
the west shore the Teton mountains rise, almost perpendicular, to a height of 
8,003 feet above the level of Jackson Lake. The three majestic, snow-capped 
peaks seem to stand guard over the surrounding country, and rising, as they 
seem to do, out of the lake, and to such a great height, these rugged 
pinnacles have a picturesqueness which is utterly impossible for me to 
describe. 

I have plenty of row-boats on Jackson Lake, and, further, I am the only 
guide who does have boats there. I also have a naptha launch, which has a 
capacity of 12 people. 

FISHING. 

Jackson Lake abounds with big speckled trout, and there could be no 
more exciting sport than trolling for them. There are numerous bays in the 
lake, where the bottom is carpeted with a heavy moss. It is over these moss 
beds where the big trout lie, and as it is almost virgin fishing, it is compara- 
tively easy to take these scaly monsters. It is not so easy, however, as to bore 
the true angler, nor yet so hard as to discourage the novice. 

There are a great many ducks and geese around the shores, and in the 
little bayous and small lakes back from Jackson Lake. During June, 




A hunting party en route to Jackson Lake. Three women in this party. The four-horse mess and baggage wagons 

shown on the left. 




A three hours' catch from Jackson Lake. The fish at the left of the foot rule was 26 ii;ches long and tiie one at the 

right was 28 inches long. Weight of catch 75 pounds. 



July and August we are allowed to kill mountain lion and bear, and 
there are no restrictions in regard to fishing. Sage hens, etc., may also be 
hunted. Sage hens have a delicate flavor, very similar to spring chicken, and 
an endless amount of sport may be had shooting with a shot gun. 

RETURNING. 

When our stay at Jackson Lake is over, we start back the same way we 
came, traveling over the same route as far as Yellowstone Lake. At this 
point we take a route different from that which we took going to Jackson 
Lake. In going to Jackson Lake and returning we travel exactly the same 
route as the regular Park Transportation Coaches, and see the same sights as 
the regular tourists. .In going to Jackson Lake we see the sights lying along the 
route up to Yellowstone Lake. Returning, we take up the route again, where 
we left it, and see the balance of the wonders and scenic effects of the Park. 

THE GRAND CANYON. 

The grandest scenery is reserved for the last, that your parting impres- 
sions of your outing, and of the Park, maybe awe-inspiring and overwhelming. 
The various geysers, paint pots, boiling springs, etc., are wonders, and they 
are interesting to look at, but when you have seen them once you are satisfied. 
Not so with the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, however. Here are three 
miles of scenery which is beyond the power of words to adequately describe. 
Our ablest writers acknowledge their utter inability to do it justice, and 
renowned artists' reproductions of it are as chromos, compared with the original. 

For weeks you have been living close to Nature, and it seems fitting, 
indeed, that as you are about to return to the hustle of the business world 
you should be given a glimpse of one of the most beautiful specimens of her 
handiwork. 

The length of our stay at the Grand Canyon is governed by the wishes 
of the party. 

REFERENCES. 

Over 10,000 people see the Park every year, and I can safely say that 
not two per cent, of them see it as I can show it to them, as I am the only 
registered guide that handles both camping and hunting parties, and the only 
one who makes the Jackson Lake trip, as well as the other extended camping 
trips. 

I do the most of my business with Chicago people, especially in camp- 
ing parties, and it is in that city I am best known. However, I have 



handled camping and hunting parties from all over the United States, as well 
as from England and Germany, and can furnish references from almost any 

locality. 

ONE BIG FAMILY. 

I do not attempt to make up parties, as I believe it unwise to introduce 
strangers on a trip of this kind. My patrons form their own parties, which are 
invariably composed of friends and acquaintances, and thus they live for four 
or five weeks as one big family. Women, as a rule, are quite as good campers, 
and like the life quite as well, as men. They adapt themselves to the condi- 
tions very readily, and enjoy the out-door life. 

I do not furnish side saddles for women. The regular cow-boy saddle 
is the most comfortable saddle made, and if women ride astride they will find 
it much easier, not only for themselves, but for the horses also. 

CLOTHING. 

For a camping trip I would recommend that men, as well as women, 
take along good, warm, woolen under-clothes. The days are warm and 
pleasant, but in this high altitude the evenings and mornings are very cool. 
For outer clothing, take your old clothing and plenty of it. A good 
sweater will not come amiss. A pair of good, stout shoes, with heavy soles; 
leggins; a broad-brimmed hat; buckskin gloves; a waterproof coat and a long, 
heavy nightgown (made of outing flannel and with a hood) completes the 
necessary wearing apparel. The women should also have a divided skirt, 
and I advise the men to wear knickerbockers. 

MY OUTFIT. 

My outfit, without exception, is the best in this section of the country. 
The wagons, tents, cots, chairs, and all utensils are kept up in good order, and 
my horses are all grain fed and always in condition. 

The mess-wagon and baggage wagon are drawn by four-horse teams. 
The passenger wagons, made in Racine, Wis., have three seats, good springs, 
lazybacks, canopy tops and side curtains, and are upholstered. These are 
drawn by two horses and seat five passengers and the driver comfortably. 

My saddle horses are all gentle and perfectly safe for ladies. They are 
mountain broke and sure-footed. 

My sleeping tents are 9x9 wall tents, which accommodate two people. 
These have heavy canvas flooring, and are heated by small Sibley stoves if 
desired. The dining tent is 14x21 feet, 6 foot wall and eleven feet in the 
center. This tent is so arranged that the mess-wagon is backed up to one 



side and covered with side curtains of the tent and forms the kitchen. I 
carry a big cooking" sto\'e, in which good baking can be done. The dining table 
is made in sections so it can be enlarged according to the size of the party. 
This is covered with a table-cloth. The dishes and cups are all enamelled 
granite and the silverware is of the Rogers make. 

Each person is furnished with a sleeping-bag and a Gold Medal Camp 
Cot. The sleeping bags are made of canvas, and are the same as the Gov- 
ernment Sleeping Bags, but improved. They open up the full length on one 
side, w^hich makes it an easy matter to get in and out of them. They are very 
comfortable to sleep in, as it is impossible to get the bed clothes off while 
you are asleep, and I guarantee no one will complain of sleeping coldly. 
Each sleeping-bag is equipped with 3 pairs of heavy woolen blankets, 2 
comforters, a cotton blanket for a sheet, and a pillow. In a sleeping-bag 
you have as much bed clothing under as over you. 

Parties are not required to make their beds, as I have help for that pur- 
pose. Hot and cold water is also served at each tent each morning, or at any 
other time it is wanted. 

I always carry a camp gridiron, 32 inches long by 18 inches wide, with 
four legs 10 inches high, which allows plenty of room underneath for a fire to 
heat water for camp purposes. 

I build a big campfireeach e\'ening, in front of the tents, which is always 
cheerful and one of the comforts of outdoor life. No camp is complete with- 
out a big campfire. 

We ha\e a liberal supply of camp chairs, of course, and the tents are 
lighted w^ith brass lanterns, such as conductors use. 

PROVISIONS. 

In the way of provisions, I always submit m}^ list to the contracting 
parties, so that any additions ma}^ be made, at my expense, if they so desire. 
I aim to please my patrons in this respect and I will <zd.\\y anytliivg which 
they ma}^ suggest, except fresh meat. We can get plenty of fish and sage 
hens along the route, and in season w^e kill all kinds of game. 

I buy the best of everything, such as Armour's Star Hams and Bacon; 
Club House or some other well known brand of canned goods; all kinds of 
fresh vegetables; canned fruits and preserves; sardines; strictly fresh Ranch 
eggs; all kinds of crackers; cheese; marmalades; olives; fresh fruit, such 
oranges, apples, lemons, etc. As for bread, our cook supplies us with baking- 
povv^der biscuit and light bread, to say nothing of the hot wheat cakes every 
morning, for what would life in camp be without hot cakes and maple syrup? 



My cook Is a professional and a good one. I have employed him seven 
years, and in that time I have not had a camping or hunting party out 
who were not unanimous in their praise of 'Jim, the Cook." 

TERMS. 

It is impossible to fix arbitrary terms. Much depends on the month in 
which the trip is made, the size of the party, etc. When I learn the details of 
your plans, I will then submit a price which will be commensurate with the 
high-grade service which I render. 

Note. — The greater part of my equipment was furnished by the A. W. Miles Co., Livingston, Mont., 
and manufactured by Geo. B. Carpenter & Co., Chicago, 111., who are known all over the United Stales as 
makers of reliable goods. 1 can recommend these parties to those who wish to outfit themselves. 




Cinnamon Bear, in Jackson Lake Country. 



Big Game Hunting. 



Much which has been written herein in regard to camping parties 
applies equally to hunting parties. 

While we usually take four and five days to make the trip from Gardiner 
to Jackson Lake with a camping party, it can be made with a hunting party in 
3% days. The trip to the permanent camp on Jackson Lake is made with 
horses and wagons. I use a pack outfit \'ery little on the fall hunt, and then 
only the fore part of September, and merely to get back in the mountains 
8 or 10 miles. 

ELK. 

The hunting season opens September ist, and lasts until December 1st. 
I always go into the Jackson Lake country, because it is the only place where 
Elk can be found in large numbers. The rolling hills which form the east 
shore of Jackson Lake are covered with green and dead timber, with open 
parks here and there, and clumps of cotton-wood trees. Here the Elk are to 
be found in large numbers. They seem to have all banded in this beautiful 
valley to make their last stand, and if the Government does not take some 
radical measures in the near future, the Elk, like the Buffalo, will become 
extinct. Elk, as well as Antelope and Buffalo, were originally prairie 
animals, but civilization has driven them to the mountains for safety. 

Bull Elk begin "whistling" about the middle of August, high up on the 
mountains, and as the nights begin to get colder, they gradual!}^ work down 
toward the valle3^s below, so that by the first of September, one can hear them, 
mornings and evenings around Jackson Lake. From the first of September to 
the last of October, you are greeted by their bugle blast from every side, and 
I do noc think there is anything in this world that will put life in a true 
sportsman, and send the blood coursing through his veins, like this e\'er 
inspiring call. 

Many times have I been out with parties, racing up hill and down dale, 
over fallen timber and leaping creeks, trying to overtake one of these 
monarchs. Not being used to the high altitude, the hunters would be forced 
to give up the chase through sheer exhaustion, and we would start to return 
to our horses, when near by, in some clump of green timber, we would hear 



*^^''*'»0t^ 



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One of many bands of Elk to be seen around Buffalo Fork, Jackson Lake Country. After taking this picture the 
largest bull in the herd was killed. Photo taken at 250 yards. 




Wind-up of a seven day hunt on Buffalo Fork. 



the old familiar call. Instantly the sportsman is alert, ready to run another 
race. He forgets that he is tired, and is once again on his mettle. He will 
never give up so long as he hears that peculiar forest trumpet. He will do 
anything for one good, open shot. And when he does at last stand victor 
over his prey, he feels recompensed a thousand times over, and in looking 
back over the events of the day, he doesn't think it was such hard work 
after all. 

MOOSE. 

On the low lands at the upper end of Jackson Lake are Moose. The 
season has been closed for Moose for five years, and they have increased very 
rapidly. Last year was the first of the open season. 

ANTELOPE. 

A great many sportsmen do not know that Antelope are to be found in 
the green timber, high up on the mountains, but this is nevertheless the case. 
They are disappearing faster than any other game. 

LION. 

Mountain Lion are plentiful in this country. Lion and Bear are increas- 
ing every year, and are proving a detriment. They kill other game, and while 
the state authorities demand a license for hunting, and have an open and 
closed season, no license'is required for killing Lion and Bear, and they may 
be hunted at any time of year. 

BEAR. 

Parties wishing to make a Bear hunt should go in the spring of the year, 
as the pelts are then prime, and at this season Bear are much more easily 
attracted to a bait. From May 1st to June 15th is the season for a spring 
Bear hunt. I make the most of my Bear hunts in Montana, starting from 
Livingston. It takes only one and a half days to get from Livingston into a 
good Bear country. The spring trips are made with pack and saddle horses, 
as the Montana country is too rugged for wagons. 

There is no trouble in getting Bear in Septemxber in the Jackson Lake 
country, but the pelts are not so good. In the spring they still have their 
thick, winter coats on and the hair is also less liable to shed. 

For Bear bait I use horse flesh, but I do not have to depend on that to 
get Bear, as I have a pack of the gamest Bear Dogs that ever lived. My 
dogs are bull terrier, crossed with Irish terrier and pointer, and they do not 
know what fear is. You can safely wager that when a Bear is stopped by 




Hunting Camp on Buffalo Fork. First morning start for an Elk hunt. There were two ladies in this hunting 
party. The mountain lion below was one of the trophies of this party. 




A fine specimen of female lion, measuring 8 feet, 2 inches from tip to tip. Killed by above hunting party on 

Buffalo Fork in the Jackson Lake Country. 



them you will have the sport of your life. They do not stand off and bark 
like a lot of curs, but just get busy, and the chances are two to one that there 
will be a dog or two to be carried into camp for repairs. 

LICENSE. 

The license in Wyoming is ^40.00 for each hunter. For this you are 
allowed to take out of the state 2 elk, 3 deer, 3 antelope, i mountain sheep, 
and 2 moose. There is no license for hunting water fowl in the open season, 
which also opens September ist. 

CLOTHING 

For a hunting trip I think a great deal of care should be taken in 
selecting clothing. My experience is that gray Mackinaw is the best for a 
hunting suit, as the color blends with your surroundings. When hunting we 
are in dead timber a great deal of the time, but even when in green timber 
gray blends with the bodies of the trees. Mackinaw is light in weight, warm, 
and makes no noise when it comes in contact with underbrush. 

Horsehide, corduroy and canvas clothes should not be worn, for when 
these materials come in contact with underbrush, it can be heard a long 
distance. Corduroy is also cold. 

So the necessary clothing is as follows: 

A coat and two pairs of trousers, gray Mackinaw; (vests are not made 
of this material); 2 suits of heavy underclothes; a heavy gray sweater; a gray 
hat; 2 woolen shirts, gray or brown; 4 pairs of heavy socks; i pair buckskin 
gloves; I pair knit gloves; I pair German socks and overshoes; a light water- 
proof coat; a pair of felt slippers or mocassins for evenings in camp; a very 
long woolen night shirt, with hood attached; and last and most important, a 
pair of good, heavy hunting shoes or boots, made with three rows of Hungar- 
ian tacks in the soles and heels. You should have 21 tacks in each sole, and 
6 tacks in each heel. 

GUNS. 

I do not furnish guns, ammunition or fishing tackle on these trips, but 
do furnish everything else that is necessary. The make of rifle to use is a 
matter of personal taste, but I advise the use of a small calibre rifle and 
nitro powder. 

Upon entering the Yellowstone Park, the guns must be taken to the 
first army post, to be registered and sealed. They must be inspected at every 
post we pass while in the Park, and when we finally reach the last one, at the 
southern boundary, the seals are broken and the guns released. 




A six-point bull killed the first evening in camp, on Buffalo Fork. 



'.''m' -sT ■ "1^ 




Bear hunt on Arizona Creek, Jackson Lake Country. Three of my bear dogs, Prince, Mag and Maude, are shown. 



AMMUNITION. 

Everybody should take a shot-gun and 150 rounds of ammunition for 
it, made up of 125 six and sevens, and 25 BBs. 

There should be 100 rounds of ammunition for each rifle. The above 
quantity of ammunition is for a 21 day trip. For a longer trip, take propor- 
tionately a greater amount of ammunition. A successful hunt, for all kinds 
of game, should be from 30 to 40 days. 

Von Lengerke & Antoine, 277 Wabash Ave,, Chicago, have outfitted 
different ones in my parties. They have a complete list of everything needed 
on a camping or hunting trip. 

TERMS. 

Write me the details of your plans, number in party and length of trip, 
and I will submit prices. As a rule I do not like over five or six in a hunting 
party, as a greater number lessens the chances of securing plenty of big 
game. 




Grizzly Bear, in Montana Country. 



Is the Royal Road to Photography ! ! 

Users of Kodaks make good pictures easily. 
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Catalogues and other information for the 
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Orders received by mail are given extra 
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169 WaLbaLsh Avenue. CHICAGO 



GEORGE B. CARPENTER Established 1840 benjamin carpenter 

GEO. B. CARPENTER 

& CO. 



MANUFACTURERS OF 



TentSt AwningSt Flags and Covers 



YACHT SAILS 
and camp outfits 



For sixty years we have been manufacturing Sails, Tents, Flags dLfid Covers. 

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The most particular and exacting buyer of Tents and Canvas goods anywhere is the 
United States Government, and we point with pride to our long and satisfactory record in sup- 
plying the government with Tents, Flags and Paulins, dating as far back as 1848. In the late 
war with Spain we made thousands of Tents without a single rejection, and we are to-day 
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202, 204, 206 and 208 SOUTH WATER STREET 

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= for =^^^ 



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CATALOGUES ON APPLICATION 



Von LengerkB & Antolne 

277 and 279 Wabash Ave. 35, 37 and 39 Van Burcn St. 

CHICAGO 



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JUM. 19 1903 



CAPITAL. $100,000 



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LIVINGSTON. MONTANA 



1} eaters in W IJV C H K S T E 1R 
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